2024 | Narrative Threads

Narrative Threads Social Square
Narrative Threads

Embroidered Textiles from the Donald Clay Johnson Collection

September 3–December 21, 2024

Goldstein Gallery, McNeal Hall
Tuesday–Saturday, 10:00 AM to 4:30 PM
Sunday & Monday, closed

Exhibition Information
Donald Clay Johnson first traveled to India in 1966 to visit friends Nootan and Shailesh Parekh in Ahmedabad, the largest city in the western state of Gujarat. A further 28 trips followed, each building his wide network of friends, advisors, and fellow scholars as well as his greatly admired collection of South Asian textiles.

This exhibition, the third organized by the Goldstein Museum of Design from Dr. Johnson’s collection, focuses on embroidery and the transformation of textiles into familial and community treasures by the artful addition of hand-sewn threads. The geographical focus includes Northwest India and present-day Pakistan, the region at the center of Dr. Johnson’s collecting activities and known for its diversity and richness of embroidery techniques.

The installation is organized around distinct types of embroidery, including historical examples (1880s–1980s) of soof, phulkari, ralli, zardozi, and mirror work traditions. Embroidery’s complex relationship to the region’s past and future is evident in the variety of stitches, colors, patterns and garments used to establish visual languages and identities within shifting contexts of colonialism, geopolitics, and consumer demand.

Throughout, textiles are presented alongside print materials from the Ames Library of South Asia here at the University of Minnesota where, as librarian from 1987–2008, Dr. Johnson amassed impressive public resources. Their numerous voices and images enhance the stories deftly stitched in thread.

This exhibition is organized by Goldstein Museum of Design curator Jean McElvain, PhD, with guest curator Kathleen Campbell, PhD. 

Special thanks to subject advisors Cristin McKnight Sethi, director of education at the Textile Center, and Anita Gopalaswamy, owner of Studio Ruyee.

The title treatment for this exhibition uses the typeface Soof Rangeela based on soof embroidery and developed by the Typecraft Initiative in New Delhi, India. In partnership with South Asian craftswomen, they teach design skills, create typefaces based on craft traditions, and spread awareness of these crafts and the people behind them.

Public Programming
About the Collector

Over the past half-century, Donald Clay Johnson has applied his deep scholarly and personal interest in South Asia to the education and enjoyment of others. Indian textiles and cultural objects fill the surfaces of his home (where he delights in recounting their stories with visitors) as well as his countless classes and lectures for both students and public audiences. Some of the more than 1,000 textiles in his collection have been featured in two previous Goldstein exhibitions: Beyond Peacocks and Paisleys: Handcrafted Textiles of India and Its Neighbors (2011) and Global Technique, Local Pattern: Ikat Textiles (2017).

In 1966, while working as a faculty aid at Northern Illinois University’s Southeast Asian Library, Dr. Johnson was sent on a book buying trip to the Philippines, Thailand, Malaysia, and Singapore. He took this opportunity to visit Nootan and Shailesh Parekh, close friends from the University of Wisconsin-Madison. They welcomed him into their family in Ahmedabad, which became his home base for a subsequent 28 trips to India. Since that time, his many local connections have helped guide his studies and acquisitions.

In addition to building his personal collection, Dr. Johnson amassed significant public resources as Librarian at the University of Minnesota’s Ames Library of South Asia from 1987 to 2008. In particular, his strengthening of that collection in the humanities as well as the social sciences helped establish UMN’s reputation as a resource for South Asian studies far beyond our campus.

A particularly impressive and enduring contribution is his publication Agile Hands and Creative Minds: A Bibliography of Textile Traditions in Afghanistan, Bangladesh, Bhutan, India, Nepal, Pakistan and Sri Lanka (2000). With more than 3,500 sources cited—some dating back to the 18th century—the volume affirms the primacy of textiles in South Asian cultures. It remains an invaluable resource for anyone exploring not only textile production in this region, but also their ties to international trade, regional economics, craft heritage and innovation, natural resources, religious expression, gender politics, social customs, family, and community.

Agile Hands and Creative Minds is included in this installation, as well as other examples of print sources from the Ames Library in sections corresponding to their subjects.

We are extremely grateful to Dr. Johnson for his generosity. As promised gifts to the Goldstein Museum, his unique collection will continue to enrich our teaching and programming with the vital support of the Donald Clay Johnson Paritosh Fund for South Asia.

Resources

Books

Agile Hands and Creative Minds book cover

Find a UMN Library Guide for this exhibition here.
(Thank you to Aubree Tillett, Humanities and Design Librarian!)

Videos

Shabir Ali Beigh: Sozni Embroiderer

Shabir Ali Beigh: Sozni Embroiderer

Video by Dastkari Haat Samiti (director Jyoti Neggi) via Google Arts & Culture

https://artsandculture.google.com/story/fQXR65qSvtHaKQ

Zardozi stitch tutorial

Zardozi stitch tutorial

Video by Sefra Correa via Internet Archive (archive.org)

https://archive.org/details/HandEmbroideryZardoziStitchTutorial

Phulkari, 1994

Phulkari, 1994

Video by Cinema Vision India via Internet Archive (archive.org)

Untranslated

https://archive.org/details/dni.ncaa.CVI-SUR_R_672-UMHB

Kutch embroidery, 1990

Kutch embroidery, 1990

Video by Cinema Vision India via Internet Archive (archive.org)

https://archive.org/details/dni.ncaa.CVI-SUR_R_121-UMLB

Do and Learn (Kashimiri embroidery)

Do and Learn (Kashmiri embroidery)

Video by IGRMS, Bhopal via Internet Archive (archive.org)

https://archive.org/details/dni.ncaa.IGRMS-MINI_DV_191-MDV

Do and Learn (Mutva embroidery)

Do and Learn (Mutva embroidery)

Video by IGRMS, Bhopal via Internet Archive (archive.org)

https://archive.org/details/dni.ncaa.IGRMS-MINI_DV_317-MDV

Training Programme on Art and Craft

Training Programme on Art and Craft* 

Video by Centre for Cultural Resources & Training, Delhi via Internet Archive (archive.org)

*Embroidery section at 27:52 min.

https://archive.org/details/dni.ncaa.CCRT-60-UMHB