
Embroidered Textiles from the Donald Clay Johnson Collection
September 3–December 21, 2024
Goldstein Gallery, McNeal Hall
Tuesday–Saturday, 10:00 AM to 4:30 PM
Sunday & Monday, closed
This exhibition, the third organized by the Goldstein Museum of Design from Dr. Johnson’s collection, focuses on embroidery and the transformation of textiles into familial and community treasures by the artful addition of hand-sewn threads. The geographical focus includes Northwest India and present-day Pakistan, the region at the center of Dr. Johnson’s collecting activities and known for its diversity and richness of embroidery techniques.
The installation is organized around distinct types of embroidery, including historical examples (1880s–1980s) of soof, phulkari, ralli, zardozi, and mirror work traditions. Embroidery’s complex relationship to the region’s past and future is evident in the variety of stitches, colors, patterns and garments used to establish visual languages and identities within shifting contexts of colonialism, geopolitics, and consumer demand.
Throughout, textiles are presented alongside print materials from the Ames Library of South Asia here at the University of Minnesota where, as librarian from 1987–2008, Dr. Johnson amassed impressive public resources. Their numerous voices and images enhance the stories deftly stitched in thread.
This exhibition is organized by Goldstein Museum of Design curator Jean McElvain, PhD, with guest curator Kathleen Campbell, PhD.
Special thanks to subject advisors Cristin McKnight Sethi, director of education at the Textile Center, and Anita Gopalaswamy, owner of Studio Ruyee.
The title treatment for this exhibition uses the typeface Soof Rangeela based on soof embroidery and developed by the Typecraft Initiative in New Delhi, India. In partnership with South Asian craftswomen, they teach design skills, create typefaces based on craft traditions, and spread awareness of these crafts and the people behind them.
Thursday, September 12
5:00–8:00 PM
Opening reception with sounds by Matthew Rahaim
McNeal Hall
Friday, September 20
8:30–10 AM
GMD x CreativeMornings/Minneapolis
McNeal Hall
Saturday, October 12
8:00–9:30 PM
Ragas of India: Samarth Nagarkar Khayal Ensemble
MacPhail Center for Music
Tuesday, October 22
5:00–7:00 PM
In conversation: Anita Gopalaswamy and Rachel Breen
McNeal Hall
Wednesday, November 6
5:00–7:00 PM
Book launch with Textile Center: Judy Frater with artists Pachan Premji and Adil Khatri
McNeal Hall
Thursday, November 14
5:00–7:00 PM
Scholar talk: Cristin McKnight Sethi on phulkari
McNeal Hall
Over the past half-century, Donald Clay Johnson has applied his deep scholarly and personal interest in South Asia to the education and enjoyment of others. Indian textiles and cultural objects fill the surfaces of his home (where he delights in recounting their stories with visitors) as well as his countless classes and lectures for both students and public audiences. Some of the more than 1,000 textiles in his collection have been featured in two previous Goldstein exhibitions: Beyond Peacocks and Paisleys: Handcrafted Textiles of India and Its Neighbors (2011) and Global Technique, Local Pattern: Ikat Textiles (2017).
In 1966, while working as a faculty aid at Northern Illinois University’s Southeast Asian Library, Dr. Johnson was sent on a book buying trip to the Philippines, Thailand, Malaysia, and Singapore. He took this opportunity to visit Nootan and Shailesh Parekh, close friends from the University of Wisconsin-Madison. They welcomed him into their family in Ahmedabad, which became his home base for a subsequent 28 trips to India. Since that time, his many local connections have helped guide his studies and acquisitions.
In addition to building his personal collection, Dr. Johnson amassed significant public resources as Librarian at the University of Minnesota’s Ames Library of South Asia from 1987 to 2008. In particular, his strengthening of that collection in the humanities as well as the social sciences helped establish UMN’s reputation as a resource for South Asian studies far beyond our campus.
A particularly impressive and enduring contribution is his publication Agile Hands and Creative Minds: A Bibliography of Textile Traditions in Afghanistan, Bangladesh, Bhutan, India, Nepal, Pakistan and Sri Lanka (2000). With more than 3,500 sources cited—some dating back to the 18th century—the volume affirms the primacy of textiles in South Asian cultures. It remains an invaluable resource for anyone exploring not only textile production in this region, but also their ties to international trade, regional economics, craft heritage and innovation, natural resources, religious expression, gender politics, social customs, family, and community.
Agile Hands and Creative Minds is included in this installation, as well as other examples of print sources from the Ames Library in sections corresponding to their subjects.
We are extremely grateful to Dr. Johnson for his generosity. As promised gifts to the Goldstein Museum, his unique collection will continue to enrich our teaching and programming with the vital support of the Donald Clay Johnson Paritosh Fund for South Asia.
Books | |
![]() | Find a UMN Library Guide for this exhibition here. |
Videos | |
![]() | Shabir Ali Beigh: Sozni Embroiderer Video by Dastkari Haat Samiti (director Jyoti Neggi) via Google Arts & Culture |
![]() | Zardozi stitch tutorial Video by Sefra Correa via Internet Archive (archive.org) https://archive.org/details/HandEmbroideryZardoziStitchTutorial |
![]() | Phulkari, 1994 Video by Cinema Vision India via Internet Archive (archive.org) Untranslated |
![]() | Kutch embroidery, 1990 Video by Cinema Vision India via Internet Archive (archive.org) |
![]() | Do and Learn (Kashmiri embroidery) Video by IGRMS, Bhopal via Internet Archive (archive.org) |
![]() | Do and Learn (Mutva embroidery) Video by IGRMS, Bhopal via Internet Archive (archive.org) |
![]() | Training Programme on Art and Craft* Video by Centre for Cultural Resources & Training, Delhi via Internet Archive (archive.org) *Embroidery section at 27:52 min. |